In the heart of Etna-Mare, among the terraces sloping down towards the sea, stands a precious testimony to the past: our early 20th-century wine press. This structure, skillfully restored but maintained in its original function, is not just a building, but a stone book that tells the story of the ancient art of Etna winemaking and the lives of entire generations who knew how to transform grapes into the nectar of the gods.
THE ORIGINS: WHEN THE ART OF ETNA WINE WAS BORN
The history of our wine press begins at the dawn of the 20th century, when the great-grandparents of the current family decided to buy this structure. The choice of location was not accidental: its position, slightly elevated above the surrounding vineyards, allowed them to use gravity to transport the grapes and must, reducing the effort of manual labor.
THE ARCHITECTURE OF FLAVOR
Upon entering the wine cellar, one is struck by the ingenuity of an architecture designed to optimize every stage of winemaking. The two main tanks, carved out of lava rock, tell the story of the first part of the process: the crushing tank, where the grapes were pressed with bare feet according to tradition, and the fermentation tank, where the must began its magical transformation.
The arrangement on different levels is not accidental: using the force of gravity, the must flowed naturally from one tank to another through channels carved into the stone. This seemingly simple system revealed a profound knowledge of the physical laws and chemistry of fermentation.
The “ghianca” is perhaps the most fascinating element of the entire wine press. This ancient pressing system, consisting of a large lava stone called “petra du conzu” and a worm gear mechanism connected to an oak trunk, allowed every last drop of must to be extracted from the pomace. The force required to operate the system required the coordinated work of two or more men, transforming the pressing into a moment of sharing and collaboration.
THE HARVEST RITUAL
The harvest was the highlight of the agricultural year, a true collective ritual that involved the entire family and often neighbors as well. At dawn, when dew still wet the grapes, the harvest began. The men cut the grapes with sharp scissors, while the women and children placed them in traditional “cufini” and “panari,” hand-woven wicker baskets.
Transporting the grapes to the wine press was a moment of celebration: mule-drawn carts wound their way along the paths of Etna, laden with fragrant bunches and hopes for the new vintage. Once they arrived at the wine press, the most spectacular phase began: the pressing.
Men and boys, with their feet carefully washed, entered the pressing vat and began dancing on the grapes to the rhythm of ancient folk songs. This was not only a method of processing, but also a moment of social sharing that strengthened community ties. The sweet juice that flowed from the crushed grapes represented the promise of wine to be shared during the long winter months.
FERMENTATION: THE MIRACLE OF TRANSFORMATION
After pressing, the crushed grapes and must were transferred to the fermentation vat, where the miracle of transformation began. The natural yeasts present on the grape skins began their work, converting the sugars into alcohol. It was a process that required constant attention: every day, the ‘cap’ had to be broken up by stirring the skins that rose to the surface to prevent the must from oxidizing.
After a few days of tumultuous fermentation, the new wine was transferred to vats located on the lower level of the wine press. Here, in the cool darkness, the slow fermentation continued, defining the final character of the wine.
THE LARGE BARREL: THE TEMPLE OF TIME
The heart of the wine press is represented by the large chestnut wood barrel, capable of holding approximately 5,600 liters of wine. This majestic structure, built without the use of nails but only with iron hoops and the skill of the cooper, represented the temple where the wine completed its maturation.
Chestnut was not chosen at random: this wood, rich in natural tannins, gave the wine structure and longevity, while its porosity allowed micro-oxygenation that enriched the bouquet. The barrel was filled using the “quartana,” a ten-liter copper container that was passed from hand to hand between three workers in a human chain, representing the final stage of the collective work.
THE MUSEUM OF MEMORY
Today, our wine press also houses an ethno-anthropological museum that preserves the tools of rural civilization: from shoemaker’s lasts to sacks for transporting grapes, from antique keys to pot-bellied demijohns, from plows to hoes, each object tells a story of hard work, ingenuity, and love for the land.
Among the most precious pieces are the “statia” (the scale for weighing grapes), “u tummulu” (the unit of measurement for cereals), “u furcuni” (the three-pronged pitchfork), the oil lantern for working at night, and the splendid wicker baskets “da uomo” (for men) and “da donna” (for women), which differ in size and decoration according to traditional use.
A visit to our wine press is not just a dive into history: it is a journey into the soul of rural Sicily, where every tool, every stone, every corner tells of a time when the relationship with the land was sacred and the transformation of grapes into wine was one of the daily miracles that gave meaning to life.
